The Taylor ham/pork roll, egg and cheese is the state’s most iconic sandwich, with scores of delis around the state proclaiming they make the best or the biggest or the most famous.
Nothing gets New Jerseyans going like the mention of Taylor ham or pork roll, even if it degenerates into a sophomoric debate over which is the proper term.
For the zillionth time: All Taylor ham is pork roll, but not all pork roll is Taylor ham. The latter is a brand name. Don’t call it Taylor ham — I’m looking at you, North Jersey — if it’s not Taylor ham.
Some pork roll history: Taylor Provisions was founded in 1939, with John Taylor’s Original Taylor Pork Roll dating to 1856. Case’s Pork Roll, which bills itself as “the original Jersey ham,” can be traced to George Washington Case, who started selling hickory-smoked pork roll at his Belle Mead farm in 1870. Today, Taylor and Case, both headquartered in Trenton, are the leading pork roll producers.
But who makes the best Taylor ham/pork roll sandwich? New Jersey takes its favorite breakfast meat seriously, and so do I. Last year, I visited nearly 50 places and drove 1,400 miles in a search for the state’s best Taylor ham sandwiches. That road trip, plus my previous TH/PREC experience, resulted in a list of the state’s 33 best Taylor ham/pork roll, egg and cheese sandwiches.
This March, I visited another 15 spots in an effort to pin down the state’s best TH/PREC sandwich. The coronavirus lockdown short-circuited that mission, so last week I revisited what I considered the six best, plus several others not previously visited.
In all, I’ve sampled 75 Taylor ham/pork roll sandwiches in the past year.
And now we come to the seven best. The photos are proof there is no one way to make a TH/PREC. There are different cheeses, different rolls, different ways to layer the egg, cheese and meat. Some delis slice their pork roll thick, others thin. Some lightly grill it, others slightly burn it. Some toast their rolls, others don’t.
Here we break down the seven finalists. The winner — New Jersey’s best Taylor ham/pork roll, egg and cheese sandwich — will be announced Monday.
The Greeks, Kearny
If this competition was judged solely on atmosphere, The Greeks would win going away. This lively little luncheonette, open since 1968, attracts locals and truck drivers, plus ever-hungry students from nearby Lincoln Middle School. “Food with attitude” is the motto, and the feisty back-and-forth between the owner and regulars is priceless. No one layers their TH/PREC quite like The Greeks: cheese, two layers meat, egg, three layers meat, egg, two layers meat, cheese. The toasted roll adds a crispy coup de grâce.
The ultimate Taylor ham sandwich may be the Sweet Home New Jersey here, the meat sandwiched between thick French toast. The menu includes burgers, roast turkey sandwiches, BLTs, omelets, gyros and cheesesteaks. It’s cash-only.
Slater's Deli, Leonardo
The state’s biggest Taylor ham/pork roll, egg and cheese sandwich? You’ll find it at Slater’s Deli, tucked into a strip mall on Route 36. It’s a molten monster, oozing egg and cheese, with six seriously thick slices of pork roll. It’ll cost you $6.95, and good luck finishing it. Slater’s also offers subs, triple decker sandwiches, salads, hot sandwiches, grilled chicken and burgers.
Mr. Bill's, Winslow
You can’t miss Mr. Bill’s. Look for the 25-foot-high roadside statue of the big-eared kid with the goofy grin. The restaurant was originally called Bill’s Drive-In. A former owner re-named it Mr. Bill’s after the Saturday Night Live character who kept getting smacked around.
Bread was a key factor in my judging. The right roll can elevate any sandwich — the wrong roll can ruin it. Too many rolls in my search for the state’s best TH/PREC were soggy or insubstantial. Mr. Bill’s offers a nice, sturdy roll, able to contain a healthy amount of meat, cheese and egg.
Mr. Bill’s menu also includes omelets, waffles, burgers, cheesesteaks, pastrami sandwiches and there’s an ice cream window. It is also one of the few places in New Jersey to get a Chicago-style hot dog, with relish, tomatoes, pickle, onions, peppers and mustard.
True Salvage Cafe, Maplewood
True Salvage Cafe is undoubtedly the coolest spot to get a Taylor ham/pork roll sandwich in the state. At first glance, it looks like a secondhand or collectibles store, with cookbooks, classic rock LPs and old-time bicycles among the furnishings. There’s a kitchen back there somewhere, and they make special sandwiches of all types, including a turkey melt with cheddar, bacon, tomato and chipotle on a ciabatta, and a roast beef special with blue cheese crema, bacon, tomato and baby arugula.
The Taylor ham, egg and cheese is a thing of beauty. The best roll among our seven finalists can be found here, an eminently crusty/chewy roll from heralded Balthazar Bakery. There is layer of cheese on top, followed by four slices of meat, a nice fluffy egg and more cheese. The result: a stunner of a sandwich.
Pork Roll Johnny's, Red Bank
Johnny Yarusi, owner of Johnny’s Pork Roll, is the state’s most colorful pork roll ambassador, appearing on frequent videos and TV shows. North Jerseyans will mutter and moan about the “pork roll” in the business name, but Yarusi says this is Central Jersey, and we say pork roll down here, not Taylor ham. He goes against the tide by using white, not yellow, American cheese. He says it’s tastier, and that the reason most delis use yellow cheese is because it’s cheaper.
What makes a standout TH/PREC? “A great piece of bread, a lot of love and care, a runny egg and white American cheese,” Yarusi replies. “You gotta burn the pork roll a little bit to give it a crispy, caramelized (finish).”
He offers 11 kinds of pork roll sandwiches, including the Western (pork roll, egg, provolone, sauteed peppers and onions) and the Pork Roll Rachel (pork roll, Swiss, sweet slaw and Russian dressing on grilled rye).
Dad's Deli, Marlton
Dad’s Deli calls itself “Marlton’s best-kept secret.” Best-hidden, too — the deli is behind a Rita’s Water Ice on North Maple Avenue.
The pork roll, egg and cheese is hefty, and a good deal at $5.35. Four slices of meat, double egg neatly folded, white cheese and an excellent roll. It’s a winner.
French toast, omelets, pancakes, subs, salads, burgers, cheesesteaks and homemade chili can be found on the expansive menu.
Gronsky's Milk House, High Bridge
Gronsky’s Milk House boasts one of the state’s most picturesque restaurant locations, along the South Branch of the Raritan River (grab a picnic table outside if possible). Gronsky’s opened in 1978 and includes an ice cream counter.
The pork roll sandwich is eminently cheesy, with pleasantly crispy meat and white cheese. The toasted roll gives it good crunch and texture.
Pancakes, waffles, sandwiches, wraps, hoagies and hot dogs can be found on the menu. Want to throw dietary caution to the wind? Try the Loaded BaconCake — crispy bacon inside a pancake topped with cheese and eggs.
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Peter Genovese may be reached at pgenovese@njadvancemedia.com.
The Link LonkSeptember 24, 2020 at 02:06AM
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Here are the 7 finalists in our epic search for N.J.’s best Taylor ham/pork roll sandwich - NJ.com
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