It’s hard to believe it’s been a year since our state made the difficult decision to temporarily shut down many of our beloved local restaurants. There were no traditional St. Patrick’s Day celebrations around town last year, and although our situation has improved, the wearin’ of the green will still be muted this year. Of course, we can still enjoy our traditional Irish favorites, as our local restaurants are open and will be serving up their Irish specialties for us to enjoy, either by dining in, or via take-out. In the past year, our restaurants and pubs have greatly upgraded their take-out and online ordering capabilities, making enjoying your Irish Day feast as easy as ever.
So, what is traditional Irish food, really? On this day of “all things green”, you may be interested in knowing that the traditional St. Paddy’s Day meal of corned beef and cabbage is no more Irish than green beer and shamrock-shaped cookies. Like many of our St. Patrick’s Day traditions in America, this dish was more an Irish-American transformation of old Irish dishes brought over by Irish immigrants in the 18th and 19th centuries. The Irish were producing salted (corned) beef, however, almost all of it was exported. Fresh meat was considered a luxury reserved more the most affluent until late in the 19th century.
The first St. Patrick’s Day parade actually took place in New York City in 1762, not in Ireland. Over the next 100 years, as Irish immigration to the US increased exponentially, these new Americans brought with them their traditional dishes from the homeland. Pork was more popular with the Irish; their favorite cut being Irish Bacon, a smoked pork loin cut similar to Canadian Bacon. However, it was prohibitively expensive for the new immigrants, so they began cooking and eating beef, which was then preferred by Americans. Boiling stew-like meals in cauldrons seemed to be a preferred method of cooking for centuries in Ireland. Also, fresh fish and seafood have always been very popular along the coasts.
Sadly, Irish immigrants in America were one of the European ethnic groups, such as the Jewish and Italian peoples, who were often discriminated against in their new land. Irish working-class citizens frequented the Jewish delis, and it was there that they became exposed to corned beef. As corned beef was cured and cooked similar to Irish bacon, it became a tasty and affordable alternative to Irish families of modest means. The potato, introduced in the 16th century, was a staple of the poor, who made up over 75% of the population back then. Cabbage was also a more affordable vegetable than potatoes and when cooked together with the beef added a briny-spicy flavor to the otherwise bland vegetable, and created a hearty, easy, and satisfying dish. The dish was a hit with the New York Irish community and its popularity took off around the country. It was even served at President Lincoln’s inauguration dinner in 1862.
So, however you celebrate it, have a safe and happy St. Paddy’s Day and remember to keep supporting our local restaurants. Erin Go Bragh!
Chef Ken Galloway is the former Dellwood Country Club and White Bear Yacht Club general manager who has started his own business, Galloway Culinary.
March 18, 2021 at 12:10AM
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Corned beef and cabbage – As Irish as apple pie - White Bear Press
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